A quick trip to Philly

We live a little over two hours from Philadelphia (and a similar distance from New York), so it's easy to go in for a day or weekend. On Friday we went to Philly to attend a charity dinner put on by our son's fraternity at Drexel University. It was at a new venue, Bistro St. Tropez at 24th and Market, on the top floor of the Marketplace Design Center. We got there early and stopped by the bar for a pre-dinner drink. Great view across the Schuylkill River to the 30th Street Station, and behind it the modern Cira Centre.

We usually stay at the Marriott Courtyard right by the magnificent City Hall and a block from the Reading Terminal Market. After some pretty good crepes for breakfast at Profi's Creperie we headed to the Italian Market, which covers a few blocks of 9th Street, centered on Washington Avenue. A lot of it is grungy compared to most European markets, maybe because it's held every day.

There were some great bargains, such as two plastic bags of grapes for $1. And there are some great stores, including a butcher shop where we found lamb sausage with rosemary and garlic - something the local supermarket doesn't have. Cheese lovers won't be disappointed either. Here's a shot through the window of Di Bruno Bros., which has been around since 1939.

 We had a decent, not memorable, lunch at Marra's and then drove up Passyunk Ave. past the intersection with 9th Street. That's where the famous Geno's and Pat's cheesesteak emporiums are located.

We also went to the Mütter Museum, certainly one of the most unique places we've ever been. It is the repository of a huge selection of medical oddities, covering hundreds of years, including a plaster cast of the original Siamese twins, Chang and Eng Bunker. Right now the headline feature is Albert Einstein's brain, although that's a little deceiving. It turns out Einstein's brain was analyzed years ago by cutting it into thin slices.
After an hour I'd had enough of weird medical exhibits, but if you're interested in all things medical this museum is not to be missed.

Vueling expands flights at Barcelona El Prat

Budget airline Vueling, partially owned by Spain's national carrier Iberia, announced a dramatic expansion of flights at the main Barcelona El  Prat airport. This is good news for travelers who want to visit other European destinations, but who by time constraints or preference do not want to go by train or car.

Barcelona El Prat airport is about 30 minutes from the center of the city by taxi.

The list of new destinations includes for the first time the Nordic countries of Denmark, Sweden and Norway, as well as Croatia and several cities in France.

From cost and time standpoints, it's hard to argue against a budget flight between European cities. Prices can be extraordinarily low, although you must be careful to count up the add-ons. We flew from Barcelona to Florence a few years ago, which took about 90 minutes; it would have taken many hours and more euros by train. And if you rent a car in one country and return it in another you'll be hit with a hefty drop-off charge.

But with time, as we will have in May, a train/car trip allows for leisurely sightseeing along the way. We'll take four days to go between Barcelona and Paris, likely through the Auvergne region of central France and Burgundy. To avoid the drop charge - and limit time behind the wheel - we'll take trains from Barcelona across the border into France, then pick up a car. At the other end we'll return it in Dijon and take a TGV train into Paris.

If you'd rather fly, be careful to know which Barcelona airport your flight is to or from. Some discount airlines fly into Girona, which is an hour or more by bus from Barcelona itself.

And one more tip: If flying into Barcelona El Prat, take seats on the right side of the plane. You'll be rewarded with a great view across the city on approach.

To see apartments in Barcelona and Paris, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Fun trip report of family in Paris

Did you ever want to be footloose and fancy free - with young children in tow? This blog makes me want to relive that part of life, free of the insecurity and clumsiness of my young parenthood. This is part 1 of 3; here's a link to Part 2, and to Part 3.

Their trip was in December; we visited in December 2008, during a colder-than-normal week. But there's so much to see and do that we didn't mind. Here's Charlotte taking a close look in the Louvre:

If you're going to visit more than two museums - or if lines drive you nuts - buy the Paris Museum Pass, which gets you free entry to 60 museums, and perhaps best of all, means no standing in the ticket queue. In addition, knowing you can come and go as you please over 2, 4 or 6 days is liberating - no need to extend a visit if you get tired, you can always come back later or tomorrow. We did that at the Musée d'Orsay and it allowed us to comfortably see more than we would have in one hectic visit. Here's a shot of this beautiful building:

We paid a visit to the Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson in Montparnasse to see some work by some of the greatest photographers. While there we stopped for a late lunch and I had this galette, a savory crepe made with buckwheat flour:

Note the scarf, purchased at Galeries Lafayette; I've since learned to properly tie a Parisian knot, which is both more stylish and warmer.

Crazy – Barcelona in 24 hours

This is not our idea of fun, but sometimes time is limited and wanderlust is not. So these folks plotted their way around Barcelona in one day. No two people would lay out the same itinerary for a one-day visit anywhere, and I'd quibble with some of the choices in this article. Most important is to have a plan, or you could easily while away the day wandering around and stopping at tapas bars. Hey, that's not a bad plan.

This day started at Gaudi's Casa Batllo, on Passeig de Gracia. Given the time constraints, these travelers opted to bypass Sagrada Familia, which aside from being a bit off the beaten tourist path usually has long lines to get in.

Gaudi's Casa Batllo shares the "Block of Discord" with two other Modernista buildings. His La Pedrera is across the street and up a couple of blocks.

There can be lines here, but shorter. We toured La Pedrera last trip and waited in line about 30 minutes, then spent about an hour inside. If you want to see Sagrada Familia but don't want the wait, you can buy tickets in advance online at http://www.sagradafamilia.cat/sf-eng/.

After walking down to the Barri Gotic, the Picasso Museum came next, except the lines also were long there, so they switched to the Museum of Contemporary Art. Already they were spending a lot of time and energy on foot. This museum is near El  Raval, the crowded immigrant district that can be intimidating, particularly at night. Except for young clubbers, who go there for a bit of exotic fun. We stayed in this apartment in El Raval and admit to a bit of discomfort at first. But we found it just a lively, authentic area where you can buy great fresh fruit and grab a cheap drink.

Fruit stand in El Raval.

Our intrepid pair then headed to the waterfront, although they don't say exactly where; the decription sounds like Villa Olympica. Both that area and Barceloneta are quite a hike from the MACBA, and the route would retrace some steps. So, like much travel writing, I think this article is a bit fanciful.

For plenty of dining and drinking options you need to go to Barceloneta, not Villa Olympica. If the weather's nice you can relax on a bench like the three young fellows below.

The water and air are still warm in late September.

The biggest change I'd make to this itinerary would be to use the Metro, buses or taxis to get from one area to another. There's plenty of walking to be had within the Barri Gotic or along Passeig de Gracia without hoofing it between them.

To see more apartments in Barcelona or Paris, visit www.likelivingthere.com

A guide to dog-friendly Paris

It strikes you as you pass a Parisienne and her pampered poodle on a residential block in the Marais, or perhaps when you notice the yellow lab snoozing beneath the café table - Parisians love their dogs and treat them as part of the family. This article describes it far better and more completely than I can.

A patient pooch waits his turn outside a café. Photo courtesy of VirtualTourist.com.

But while the dogs we've come across in Paris are incredibly well-behaved, their owners feel no compunction to clean up after them. No one carries plastic baggies at the ready, so it's wise to look down now and again when walking. The city has tried many ways to cope, but as the article points out, mostly washes the poops into the guttter.

Alas, few apartment owners we deal with in either Paris or Barcelona allow pets of any kind ... not that many travelers bring them along. Those that do likely have favorite hotels that pamper both the pet and owner.

Here's an apartment in the 2nd arrondissement where you can easily walk to many key sights, including the Jardin des Tuilleries, where you're likely to get a glimpse of Parisians and their pooches. To see more apartments in Paris and Barcelona, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Is this an early April Fool story?

This article appears in an established newspaper, but really, could this be possible? I don't think so, but the architectural firm will get a lot of free publicity for their effort. This could be someone's idea of fun, I guess.

Don't worry, there are harnesses to keep you from falling off.

The architects said they wanted to design something fitting for a city that is noted for its unique buildings, from the Sagrada Familia cathedral, seen in the background, to the modern and slightly suggestive Torre Agbar. I think they had tongues firmly in cheeks when they came up with this.

If you'd like to have a comfortable stay within range of Sagrada Familia, how about this apartment? It's five blocks from the Gaudi masterpiece and the same from the classy Passeig de Gracia in the other direction. There's a good Metro station with two lines nearby, as well as a market. And you're a pleasant stroll up the calm Passeig de Sant Joan boulevard to the relatively tourist-free Gracia district.

If you want to rock climb, maybe this will help. We make no recommendations, just did a quick search to turn them up.

Don't wait too long if you're planning to visit Barcelona or Paris this year; inquiries shot up right after the holidays and our contacts there tell us they're seeing steady demand. What recession?

Cezanne in Paris at the Musée du Luxembourg

The great Impressionist painter Paul Cézanne usually is associated with Provence, often for his paintings of Mont Sainte-Victoire near Aix-en-Provence. But an exhibit through February 12 at the Musée du Luxembourg, at 19 rue de Vaugirard in the Jardin du Luxembourg, showcases his work in Paris, where Cézanne spent more than half his career.

We were in Aix in September 2010. Here are a couple of photos:

The beautiful fountain at Place du General de Gaulle, at the foot of the Cours Mirabeau.

 

About the midpoint of the Cours Mirabeau.

We didn't have time to get much off the tourist track, but could sense that following the winding lanes would yield more authentic experiences. We were staying in Vaugines in the Luberon and made our way to Aix via Cadenet, a modest village with some unique attributes, such as a museum of basketry.

The basket museum in Cadenet.

One example of the artisanship and artistry.

It was a Monday and there was a market. I picked up some luscious preserves and Charlotte found a pair of nice hammered silver earrings.

Back to Paris in this disjointed post; here's a very nice apartment about halfway between the Luxembourg and the Seine river. This is a very touristy area, in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Pres. But it's also centered on many of the sights travelers come to Paris to see.

For a look at more apartments in Paris and Barcelona, visit www.likelivingthere.com