Disturbing exhibit at Branly targets racism

A current exhibit at the Quai Branly museum offers challenging images of racism, including "human zoos" once found in Paris's Jardin d'Acclimatation.

Poster for "The Invention of the Savage" at the Branly.

Lilian Thuram, the curator, is a former soccer player turned anti-racism advocate. He has pulled together a display of offensive images and stories that particularly show Africans as less than human - or at least inferior to the white man. Venues for the cruelty included Buckingham Palace and Coney Island.

"For the visitors of this era, it was a way ... to see what was happening elsewhere in the world. Except that visitors weren't totally aware that was a spectacle, that it was a fabricated difference," fabricated to make the viewer feel superior, said scientific curator Nanette Jacomijn Snoep.

Situated near the Eiffel Tower in the 7th arrondissement, the Branly is one of the newest museums in Paris. It's collections attempt to display historical cultures from around the world. There's also a rooftop terrace and restaurant with great views:

Les Ombres restaurant at the Quai Branly museum.

If more traditional art appeals to you, it's not far to the Musée d'Orsay or Musée Rodin.

Here's a nearby apartment for a family or friends traveling together. We stayed here with friends in fall 2010, just after it had been put on the market. The space, three bedrooms and two baths made things very comfortable. It's not inexpensive, but the view of the Eiffel Tower from the living room windows is worth a little extra.

Visit www.likelivingthere.com to see more apartments in Paris and Barcelona.

Christmas just beginning in Barcelona

While the frantic Christmas season comes to a head in the U.S., in Barcelona things are just hitting stride. This article describes the festivities that began on Christmas Eve and last until Epiphany, January 6, when the Three Kings arrive with a flourish, bringing gifts to every child.

Shoppers under the lights in Barcelona

The author points out that the season is not just about rushing around to find the best bargains. As in most of Europe, the Christmas season in Barcelona is more easy-going, with lots of time for socializing, relaxing and taking in the special decorations and events. And it's somewhat ironic that in places where church attendance is well below that in the States, there's a reverence for religious traditions.

We have not yet been in Barcelona for the holidays, but from what I've seen and read, it's a lot like Paris, where we spent a chilly December week a couple of years ago, but with its own twists, including the "Caganer," the pooping peasant found in most Nativity scenes and reproduced in chocolate. I'm not sure how I'd feel about taking a bite of that!

Bon Nadal!

Great photo report on the lighted Champs-Elysées

Spend a few minutes with this blog and browse the decorations along the Champs-Elysées, from the Arc de Triomphe to the Christmas markets and La Grand Roue (the Ferris wheel) that is installed during the holidays at Place de la Concorde. This blogger puts up wonderful posts with excellent photos of Paris and other places. One I particularly liked was a Sunday morning walk around Montmartre, providing glimpses of streets, homes and gardens absent crowds.

The highlight (?) of the post is the new lights on the trees along the Champs-Elysées,with appropriately critical comments. These hula hoops may satisfy someone's desire for the avant garde, but I agree they don't in any way communicate the spirit of Christmas. Contrast what you've seen with the old:

I like these so much I created a pale imitation on a tree next to our house. Then I saw the new lights and was horrified! Here's a shot that looks from atop the Arc to La Grand Roue:

When you look at the linked blog, be sure to go down to the videos of window displays at the grands magasins Printemps and Galeries Lafayette.

Here's an apartment close enough to walk to the Champs-Elysées in one direction and the Seine in the other. To see more apartments in Paris and Barcelona, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Tapas isn’t all in Barcelona … try the chocolate

While tapas and cava are well-known Barcelona treats, the city also has a marvelous range of chocolate shops. The link here takes you to an article about one:
bakingbites.com/2011/11/cacao-sampaka-barcelona-spain/

That shop is located in the Eixample, just off Passeig de Gracia. We've found the smaller, less fancy ones along Calle de la Princesa and on other streets near the Picasso Museum in El Born filled with tasty confections as well. The nearby Calle del Comercio is the location of the Museu de la Xocolata and the highly regarded restaurant that specializes in dessert, Espai Sucre. There are good restaurants here as well, including Santa Maria, run by an alumnus of Ferran Adria's El Bulli.

Our son enjoyed this masterpiece when we at at the restaurant Citrus on Passeig de Gracia:

The chocolate was drizzled with, of course, a citrus sauce.

Here's a new family sized apartment not far from Citrus. This area also has the city's most complete and classiest shopping, from the flagship Zara store to high-end names like Chanel and Bulgari a few blocks away.

To see more apartments in Barcelona and Paris, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Electric rental cars arrive in Paris

The Velib' bicycle system is no longer the only innovative public transit option in Paris.

A Velib' bicycle on Rue des Ecoles in the 5th arrondissement.

On Monday Autolib' began operations, offering electric mini-cars by the hour. There are subscription fees from one day to one year and hourly rates from euro 4 to euro 9. About 2,000 subscribers have already signed up. According to the article, the scheme is a private venture and is not expected to break even for seven years.

One thing that may be a problem for U.S. tourists wanting to use the system (and Velib') is the automated payment stations likely won't take a standard magnetic strip credit card. For years I heard that Velib' would work with American Express, but I'm not sure that's even the case  now. U.S. banks are slowly offering card with the embedded chip that has been standard elsewhere in the world for years, but hopefully there are other options until that happens.

As small, cute and earth-friendly as the Autolib' cars are, I'd be inclined to use them only when necessary, such as if I needed to move luggage or something else large and clumsy, or for jaunts where the Metro doesn't go. They're said to have a 150-mile range, although you might not want to test it.

We stayed at an apartment on Rue des Ecoles a few trips ago; it's not one we represent but this one is. This is a lively area with a great mix of local residents, tourists and students. Here's transportation of an entirely different sort we spotted outside our door; the owner of the café at the corner may have owned it, since it seemed to be around for a long time.

Paris with kids, good ideas and some not so much

A type-A mom offers some useful tips for visiting Paris with children, but some of it seems unrealisitic, at least with children as independently minded as mine. Here's the link.

http://www.ciaobambino.com/ciaobambinoblog/index.php/2011/09/things-to-do-in-72-hours-in-paris-with-kids/

On first reading I thought she was trying to do too much, but the schedule really isn't that bad. Adults only might spend more time just hanging out at cafés, but with young children you need to keep things moving. The first half-day was made easier by pre-purchasing Eiffel Tower tickets, an excellent suggestion. And even kids who spend most of their time with eyes glued to the computer screen will be impressed by the sights on the walk from Rue de Rivoli to the Tower.

Pont Alexandre III, which crosses the Seine between the Grand Palais and Les Invalides. The bridge is featured in Woody
Allen's film, Midnight in Paris.

One bit of advice, eating a big breakfast at your hotel, likely does two bad things, in my opinion. First, it probably costs a fortune; second, it deprives you of the café experience. In this case, if you can afford the Brighton Hotel, maybe price is not an issue, as rooms start at euro 239, about $325, for as little as 18 square meters.

Aside from more space and a better price, one of the little joys of apartment travel is wandering into a local café and ordering the ubiquitous café and croissant special. Tip: stand or sit at the bar and it costs less, as service is not added. If that sounds far-fetched with kids in tow, stock up at a local store and have breakfast in your room.

Even this studio in the 2nd arrondissement has a usable kitchen.

The writer recommends buying a Museum Pass and so do we. Her experience is a perfect example of why; not only do you bypass lines, which can be excruciatingly long even for adults, you feel no pressure to stay beyond your limits to get your money's worth. Didn't get to it all today? Go back tomorrow. If the weather's OK, I'd suggest the Musée Rodin as a good choice with children, since it has both the indoor displays and a delightful sculpture garden.

Rodin's "The Kiss." Suitable for children?

And what kid of any age wouldn't enjoy this sculpture at the Centre Pompidou modern art musuem?

We find the Conciergerie impressive but taxing, and I can't imagine children wanting to spend more than five minutes there. Better to go to the flower market just across the street on Ile de la Cité - or even more fun, the bird market that it becomes on Sundays.

Bird lovers and dealers set up their cages here and you can ooh and ahh at the exotic offerings.

Other sights, either mentioned in the article or our ideas: Arc de Triomphe is a great teaching opportunity as it also holds the tomb of the unknown soldier from World War I. In addition, the explanatory display with models makes it easy for anyone to appreciate the Arc. The view on a clear night is wonderful, and usually much faster than the Eiffel Tower.

As long as you're on the Champs-Elysées, be sure to stop in the Peugeot showroom, which is filled with interesting vehicles, memorabilia and inexpensive trinkets.We were there during the holidays one year, when the avenue is all gussied up.

Peugeot concept car, one of several vehicles on display.

Like any big city, Paris can present challenges to families with young children. But the huge variety of museums, parks and interesting shops - along with the excellent Metro system - makes it an easier visit than many other places.

To see more apartments in Paris and Barcelona, visit www.likelivingthere.com