El Born or l'Eixample - which is best for your Barcelona visit?

The question comes up frequently from prospective visitors to Barcelona .. should we stay in El Born (or the Barri Gotic), or l'Eixample? While there are plenty of other districts in the city, from the gritty Raval to upscale Sarria/Sant Gervasi, these two understandably are top-of-mind, particularly with first-time visitors. And, unless someone has a reason to be elsewhere, we'll usually suggest apartments in one or both of these areas. But that doesn't mean they're the same, so, for anyone trying to choose between them, here are some important differences.

Let's start with the streets. El Born and the Barri Gotic, the two main sections of Ciutat Vella, or the Old City, were developed in the Gothic period, from the 12th to the 15th century. Barcelona had grown from a compact fishing and trading village, with little need for grand spaces. To shield pedestrians and workers from the hot sun, buildings a few stories high lined narrow streets that meander about, today lined with bars, boutiques and restaurants.

Streets in the Ciutat Vella (Old City) are often only wide enough for scooters, and strollers.

In contrast, l'Eixample was laid out in the late 19th century with wide streets and boulevards, partly because it was believed the cramped Old City predisposed residents to diseases that might be avoided if air was allowed to whoosh through.

The chamfered corners of l'Eixample were said to have allowed the gentry's carriages to more easily make turns.

Here's a blog that explains clearly and simply - with drawings as well - how the Eixample evolved. While the density of tapas bars and other eating and drinking places is lower in l'Eixample, there's not shortage, so in either location you won't lack for good choices.

Another contrast is noise, or at least the source of it. In the Old City, you're more likely to be annoyed by the chatter and shuffle of people making their way through the narrow streets to shops and bars. Depending where you are, it can be raucous or more muted. In l'Eixample, traffic is the big challenge, as morning commuters and typical city bustle clog the streets. So, in both areas, it's good that your apartment either faces the courtyard or has modern, acoustic windows to block out unwanted sounds. I, a light sleeper, never travel without earplugs. My favorites are the soft foam and appropriately named Leight Sleepers, which you can find at Walgreens.

Of course, given the centuries between their development, the architecture is very different in the two areas. The Old City is considered the best-preserved and largest Gothic section in Europe, and it is sprinkled with churches from that period as well, most of which you can duck into for a glimpse, as long as you're quiet and discrete. We like to eat at Cafe de l'Academia in the postage-stamp Placa de Sant Just, where you'll also find the Basilica dels Sants Martyrs Just i Pastor. On weekends you're likely to see a wedding party there (or at any of the other churches), which presents an intriguing contrast of youth to the ancient structure.

Just hanging out on the steps of the church in Placa de Sant Just.

Read more about this period in Barcelona history here.

Having been built on a plan, l'Eixample is more uniform, with generally consistent building height. Think of it as Hausmannian Paris in a different style. But if you pay attention to detail, you'll see the architecture and decoration are pleasantly varied, whether on a Gaudi masterpiece like La Pedrera, or other handsome buildings along the classy Passeig de Gracia and other streets.

Gaudi's La Pedrera, which you can tour. His Casa Batllo is across Passeig de Gracia and down a block.

Shopping is different, too, at least between the small boutiques of El Born and the luxe houses on Passeig de Gracia. Even in the Old City, chain stores that can be found in many destination cities are displacing local merchants in the most-trafficked spots, but if you wander the side streets and alleys you'll come across shops like Pinzat, where each bag is not only hand-made, it's individually painted and decorated.

The artist shows off a bag at Pinzat.

That's true in l'Eixample as well; getting a couple of blocks off the main drags, you'll feel a different vibe, as tiny tapas bars and one-person shops replace name brands.

Getting to other parts of the city is easy and inexpensive from either area. Although it is less extensive than in Paris, the Metro is efficient, and beyond that there are myriad bus routes and a tram system to fill in. You can see it all at the city transportation website.

If the going to the beach is one of your goals, staying in El Born, where you can catch the L4 line at the Jaume 1 Metro station, is the more convenient. This line goes in the other direction to Passeig de Gracia and on into the Gracia district, a charming zone that was a separate town until around 1900.

L'Eixample may be for you if Gaudi's Parc Guell and Sagrada Familia top your agenda, and if you'd like to put some space between you and the tourist crowds. Depending on where you stay, you can easily walk to the cathedral (now a basilica) and La Pedrera. Parc Guell is more of a challenge, as it is decidedly uphill. I'd recommend either a taxi or bus. If you go to Parc Guell first, the mile walk to Sagrada Familia is downhill; stop along the way for a drink or snack in one of the many cafes you'll pass as you walk through a typical residential / commercial zone.

Your family will  feel at home in this Eixample 3 bedroom apartment, with 3 bathrooms, too!

This only lightly scratches the surface of all the things that make these areas, and all of  Barcelona, such an attractive destination. We're always happy to share with clients our experiences staying in different parts of the city, as well as a "tips and links" document and a page of one-day itineraries that may be of help in planning how to spend your time there.

To see some of the vacation rental apartments we can offer in Barcelona and Paris, visit www.likelivingthere.com.