4 things not to miss in Barcelona

Barcelona offers such a wide and deep selection of things to do and see that it can be hard to choose among them, particularly for those on a short visit - short to me being anything less than a week. Arts and architecture, history, churches, cuisine and the beaches all compete for visitors' attention, so it's a good idea to devote some time to researching the attractions that most appeal to you before settling into your apartment. Everyone will have their own favorites, but here are a few things I'd put at the top of the list for anyone wanting to get a good feel for this endlessly fascinating city where the ancient and modern seem to co-exist with remarkable harmony.

The columns that support Sagrada Familia's soaring ceilings resemble trees.

Gaudi: The architect Antoni Gaudi left his mark on many parts of the city and with varied structures, but if you can get to only one, it should be the magnificent Sagrada Familia basilica. Don't let the horror stories about long lines frighten you; buying tickets in advance online spares you the wait. Advance ticket holders go to the opposite side from the Passion facade where those who didn't plan line up, and usually find themselves inside within just a few minutes. Once there, join the throng (it's always filled, but you won't mind) gawking at the incredible spaces, colors and organic shapes that Gaudi worked into his design. If you have time, go to the basement crypt, where you can learn how this genius worked out his plan, which will hopefully see completion within a decade.
If one is not enough, La Pedrera and Casa Batllo, both on Passeig de Gracia, offer tours, with the rooftop of La Pedrera getting you up close and personal with the iconic chimney caps that remind me and others of storm troopers from Star Wars.

Fanciful caps on La Pedrera's chimneys remind many, including me, of storm troopers in the Star Wars movies.

Ciutat Vella: The Old City is the main draw for tourism in Barcelona, and with good reason. The Barri Gotic and el Born represent the largest and best-preserved Gothic sections in Europe, and both are alive with tapas bars, restaurants, boutiques and cultural sites. If you do nothing else, just wander around here, gaze at the ancient features, stop for a snack and drink in the history that manages to survive its own popularity with visitors.
Barcelona's history goes back much further, to the Roman town Barcino, and a remarkable glimpse and life there is found at the Museu d'Historia de Barcelona, which is literally under your feet.

These vats held garum, a fermented fish sauce used to flavor foods in Roman times.

Always a highlight for us is the Santa Maria del Mar church, said to be the finest example of Catalan Gothic architecture. It's facade faces a small square where you can enjoy a snack or drink, and behind it is Passeig del Born, the main thoroughfare, off of which branch alleys and streets lined with bars, restaurants and shops.

The handsome Santa Maria del Mar church dominates el Born. It's an active church, so be respectful of worshipers.

To get a full perspective on the times in which the church was built, the 14th century, read "Cathedral of the Sea," a novel by Ildefonso Falcones that is centered on the construction of the church. It's not for the faint of heart - life was hard in those days - but worth the effort for those who want to understand how this magnificent structure and the city around it came to be. The book is available at amazon.com

There's a lot more to the Old City, from the carnival-like Las Ramblas, to the markets, other churches and the cathedral, the Picasso Museum, performance venues and more. And right next door to el Born you'll find Parc de la Ciutadella and its zoo, great for families.

If you want to experience a more edgy taste of the Old City, head to El Raval, a district that is in transition, with parts still home to recent immigrants and others gentrified by trendy bars shops and apartments. It's also home to MACBA, the main contemporary art museum.

Passeig de Gràcia: This broad and busy boulevard is the heart of l'Eixample, the upscale expansion of Barcelona that was planned and built in the late 19th century, when the old sections had become unhealthily overcrowded. This is the "Champs-Elysées" of Barcelona, where you'll find all the usual luxury retailers occupying the ground floor of beautiful buildings, as well as plenty of choices for sidewalk dining.

Be sure to look up when strolling Passeig de Gracia, for the architecture that includes distinctive Gaudi-designed lamps.

The best way to take all this in is on a leisurely walk of approximately 1 kilometer (about 3/4 of a mile) from the bustling Placa de Catalunya to the modern Diagonal avenue. Along the way you'll see incredible architecture, including the Gaudi buildings and shops of all descriptions, including a big Zara store and the flagship of Spanish designer Adolfo Dominguez.
Sadly, one of the city's most distinctive stores, the home design shop Vincon, could not afford the stiff rent and closed in mid-2015.
The further you stray off of the boulevard, the more authentic dining and shops you'll find. One block over, Rambla de Catalunya is noted for its outdoor eating places in the median, as well as stores, cafes and restaurants on either side. Keep going where most tourists won't follow and you'll run across more down-to-earth places where you can get good tapas and other food at more reasonable prices, as long as you're comfortable rubbing elbows with the regulars.

Montjuïc: This approximately 600-foot high hill and its slopes contain a wide range of points of interest, from gardens, to modern art, to infrastructure for the 1992 Olympic Games, which sparked modern tourism in Barcelona. Unless staying nearby, you'll need to choose how to get here between taxis and buses to a thrilling ride on a cable car that runs from the seafront. Once on top, you can take in the impressive Fondacio Joan Miro, which the artist himself helped to develop.

Contemplating a Miro work on the rooftop.

Art lovers will  want to work their way down the hillside to the Catalan National Museum of Art, housed in a remarkable palace built for the 1929 international exposition. Inside is a broad collection, from Medieval to Modern, and the terraces afford magnificent views across the city.

View from the terrace at MNAC across to Tibidabo.

Further down, and visible in the photo above behind the four columns, is the Magic Fountain. Come back here in the evening to see a spectacular sound and light show, with the water jets dancing. Check the schedule, as it isn't on every night.

The Magic Fountain (Font Majica) mounts a spectacular sound, light and water show.

Ready for a break? You can head to Poble Espanyol, a sort-of theme park for all things Spanish (and Catalan), or in the other direction walk down into the Poble Sec neighborhood, where you'll find Placa del Sortidor, a pretty square surrounded by restaurants, most with outdoor tables. But don't fill up; a little further on and you'll be at Quimet y Quimet, one of the most celebrated tapas bars in Barcelona, and one of our favorites.

Placa del Sortidor, in the Poble Sec neighborhood.

Working tapas magic at Quimet y Quimet.

Barcelona has great public transportation that can get you to any of these places quickly and inexpensively. The Metro isn't as extensive as in Paris, but buses go just about everywhere, using the same tickets as the subway. And taxis are quite abundant and you can probably get an Uber, although the legality is in question.

If you need a place to rest your head between all these outings, check out examples of the apartments we offer at likelivingthere.com. In addition to great apartments at fair prices, we provide clients with a "tips and links" document that spotlights many of the major sights (and sites), as well as a list of one-day itineraries that can be mixed or matched as guests desire. If you want to take more of a hands-on approach, pick up a good guidebook that provides more detail and is organized by zones of the city and areas of interest.