Off-radar Paris restos that stand the test of time

A restaurant review in The New York Times inspired this post. Reading about the $25 burger - fries are $7 more - at The Spotted Pig in Manhattan reminded me of a similar meal at Les Bistronautes, a charming bistro just west of the Luxembourg Gardens. It was just down the street from our apartment and I'd read positive reviews. We were so pleased we went for dinner twice, and the second time I ordered the burger ... burgers being a current craze in Paris.

The burger at Les Bistronautes comes with hand-cut fries and a salad.

I recently checked out their website, and the burger is 19 euros, which includes tax and service. At today's exchange rate, that's under $22, compared to more than $40 for that New York version. And I can assure you the meat was cooked perfectly (never overdone, as some comments on the Times article noted) and the service was very agreeable and personable.

Les Bistronautes is one of several out-of-the-way places we've had the pleasure to find in various parts of Paris. And while none of them are undiscovered, the ratio of tourists to locals is quite small, so that at times we've been the only non-French speakers in the places.

One of the best, which now gets prominent rankings on Trip Advisor and elsewhere, so the crowd may have changed, is Le Billebaude in the 7th arrondissement. I see that it now has a website, a recent addition that I suppose is necessary, but likely to draw more of a tourist crowd. But if that's what they need to do to stay open until we get back again, I guess I'm for it.

Le Billebaude is known for its game dishes and there's usually at least one choice on the 34 euro menu. Again, that's equivalent to a bit over $38 right now - less than a burger and fries at The Spotted Pig!

Le Billebaude can seat a little over 30 diners. When we were there, one professional waiter handled the entire room.

When we ate there, one professional waiter handled the entire room of more than 30 diners. Did he engage in charming banter with each table? No, but we did not feel neglected - it's a relief to not be pestered every 5 minutes by a server asking "how is everything," or trying to push an extra soda, but who keeps a sharp eye out for the nod that means we're ready to pay and go home.

On the same street was the Auberge du Champ de Mars, a tiny place run by a husband and wife for more than 25 years. It wasn't a gourmet destination, but price / value ratio was great and the reception always warm and accommodating. They sold the place about five years ago, and the new restaurant Philippe Excoffier is a step up in quality (and price, with a 40 euro menu), but apparently worth it according to reviews. It's run by the chef and his wife, maintaining that charming, and I think effective, tradition.

Similar in style, and even smaller, is Le Temps au Temps, on Rue Paul Bert in the 11th. This is a sort of Restaurant Row, highlighted by the venerable Bistrot Paul Bert, its spinoff Le 6 Paul Bert and a couple of other places. We've eaten at all three, and I'd choose the less expensive and less pretentious Temps au Temps over the bigger names. I think there are about 16 seats shoehorned into a tiny, simple room, and a couple of sidewalk tables. Claustrophobes should go elsewhere - as should vegetarians unless they're content with a salad. At 32 euros (about $36 with tax and service), it's a bargain.

The tiny, simple dining room at Le Temps au Temps, in the 11th arrondissement.

It's interesting that ownership has changed since we were there, but the ratings haven't, remaining consistently high. It won't attract the Alain Ducasse crowd, but plenty of people who value great food and warm service know the address.

A short distance away is Au Petit Panisse, which I've mentioned several time before. This attractive place owned by partners Fred and Laurent is the essence of an authentic Parisian dining experience. Fred handles the front of the house and Laurent is in the kitchen.

Fred preps in the empty dining room at about 7 p.m. By 8:30 it was completely filled.

Of course, we Americans showed up right at the opening hour without a reservation. They squeezed us in, which seemed silly until the locals began trooping in around 8. Couples, families, groups of friends until there wasn't an empty seat in the place. And it was easy to understand why as we worked our way through a wonderful meal. Check out the generous chalkboard menu (it's now 32 euros, still a bargain). We shared the foie gras - never passing up a chance to have it - and I had the octopus (poulpe). Charlotte probably asked for a dinner salad. Dessert that night included a chestnut "cake" that was more like a firm pudding.  It was a unique taste for us, and if we're anywhere near this place we'll be sure to revisit.

If even 32 euros is more than you want to spend, look for places that serve lunch (dejeuner); at Au Petit Panisse a three-course lunch is only 17,50, or you can drop either dessert or the appetizer and spend only 16. Imagine paying as little as $18 with tax and tip for a first-class lunch in New York or San Francisco - not gonna happen.

The same strategy holds true if you want to experience the highest end of Parisian dining. We have twice gone for lunch to Taillevent, a Michelin two-star icon (should be three) where as complete strangers we were made to feel as important as a duke and duchess. Yes, it's 88 euros per person, beverages extra. But I'd call it a budget splurge, compared to the tariff of 218 euros per for dinner - and this is one of the most reasonably priced haute cuisine temples in Paris.

Our anniversary treat at Taillevent.

If you think restaurants like this are stuffy and formal, prepare for a surprise. The wait staff is extraordinarily warm and open to questions, and, as the photo shows, they are accustomed to hosting special events. I don't know if Jean-Marie Ancher is still there, but we will always cherish his kindness and unequaled hospitality on our visits, first for our anniversary and then with friends. You only live once, and this has been an experience worth spending a car payment on.

If you'd like to sample one of these places, or some of the many others like them all around Paris, save the money you'd spend on an overpriced, cramped hotel room and rent an apartment. With a kitchen, you can shop at the local street market, Monoprix or convenience store and whip up your own meals when you wish. The savings can relieve your guilt when you pay that big check.

See some of the vacation rental apartments we can offer in Paris and Barcelona at www.likelivingthere.com. There are a lot more, so fill out a Trip Plan on the website or drop us an email at info@likelivingthere.com with basics about your trip and we'll promptly get back to you with suggestions that include descriptions of the apartments and the areas they're in.