Paris wrap up

 Back on home soil for a few days, I'm reflecting on our latest visit to the City of Light. While an aching back kept me from fulfilling all my goals for the trip, there were a lot of rewards. These were just a few:

- Getting to know better the Canal Saint-Martin and Oberkampf areas. While Oberkampf has rapidly gentrified, with tony shops close at hand, the canal zone feels relaxed and comfortable. It was great fun to watch two members of a model boat sailing club maneuver their craft in the shadow of a picturesque arched green bridge. Of course, photo opportunities abound. Our apartment was about one block away, toward Place de la Republique on rue du Faubourg du Temple. Republique, while attracting hordes of tourists, seemed to draw its share of locals for an evening nosh. It was messy, with beer cans and trash marring the gardens, although a cleanup effort appeared to starting as we left.

- The Sunday bird market on Ile de la Cité. It is perhaps not as exotic as one might think but the variety of colors and songs brightens even the cloudiest day (of which we had almost none).

- Later in the visit, having a view of the Eiffel Tower from our dining room windows. Our friends had been to Paris before but had never seen the hourly evening light show, which was impressive from the sixth floor. This apartment is set in a classy residential area of the 7th arrondissement, so one disadvantage was the lack of nearby cafes. But for someone feeling better than I was, a moderate stroll to rue Cler and beyond could satisfy any desire.

- Montmartre and Sacré-Coeur. We had not bothered to visit this part of the city on earlier trips, partly because of its reputation as a tourist trap. Perhaps because it was mid-September, we were pleasantly surprised by the village-like atmosphere, clean streets and interesting cafes and shops. It was fun to gaze across the city from Sacré-Coeur, having seen it from below from so many angles.

And what didn't get done? A lot, which gives us much to plan for next time, and next, and ...

- A jazz club visit, in a city that clings to its status as a haven for performers of this American genre.

- A performance at Opera Garnier. The season didn't begin until later in the month.

- Sampling numerous restaurants that are on our radar.

- A Canal Saint-Martin cruise. We weren't able to squeeze the 2 1/2 hours into any of our days. And the schedule is reduced by September, so more planning was needed.

- More small museums. We got to the Orangerie and Carnavelet, but there's a pretty long list to go.

Next post: making our way to Barcelona.