Tasty traveling

Having a kitchen is one of the great money-saving features of “self-catering” apartments, but ours seldom get a workout. That’s partly because our stays tend to be shortish as we want to check out as many rental properties as possible when we visit Barcelona and Paris. We also regard sampling the local fare an important part of travel, so we look for interesting eating places in the neighborhoods and throughout and between the cities. Here’s a brief sampler from our latest trip.

We returned to Le Buisson Ardent in Paris’s 5th arrondissement this fall, www.lebuissonardent.fr, having visited first two years ago, when we stayed nearby. This adventurous and charming restaurant is on an otherwise nondescript street but near a Metro stop, making for a convenient destination. We were greeted by the same waiter who served us then, who exhibited just enough of the requisite Parisian haughtiness without being obnoxious. I’m sure some diners are put off by this, particularly if they are used to the American standard of oversolicitousness. The menu had changed somewhat, including the menu price, which had dropped to 31 euros from 32, a sign that the sluggish economy remains a challenge. While there was some inconsistency, the quality remains high, a judgment supported by the 4.5 star rating on TripAdvisor. Unlike last time, which was in winter, we dined outside on a fine September evening.

We seldom splurge on expensive restaurants in Paris, because both our budget and appetites don’t allow it. The lone exception was an anniversary lunch at the incredible Taillevent in 2008, an event that may be repeated on the next milestone. Perhaps that’s why on this trip we felt our best meals were found outside of Paris. Vying for the best of the trip was the 30 euro table d’hote at our next stop, Domaine des Anges in Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy. Lady Celine Nicholls is a simply amazing cook as well as the supreme hostess, ably assisted by husband John. The setting is gorgeous and it’s fun and enlightening to break bread with other guests, who typically hail from throughout Europe. Check it out at www.domainedesangespuligny.com.

Another highlight in Burgundy was lunch at Les Roches in Saint-Romain, a charming small hotel/bistro that features not only well-prepared, fresh local food but a wide selection from the many nearby wineries. The sign above give you an idea of how many there are. At 87 euros for four, including glasses of wine and three coffees, this was a memorable refresher in the middle of a touring day.

After a disappointing overnight in Geneva we headed to Provence, stopping for a wonderfully satisfying lunch at the Festival Café. Charlotte says the lamb stew was the best she’s ever had and everyone else was equally impressed by what looks like a typical tourist-trap on the busy Place de la République. I regret not taking a photo because it is a lovely setting beneath the plane trees.

Our eventual destination for two nights, L’Elephant de Vaugines, did not offer gourmet dining and as the only guests we decided not to trouble our hosts beyond the complimentary breakfast. This meal, served at a table in the courtyard overlooking the Luberon valley, this leisurely start to the day, was a reminder that extravagance is not necessary to enjoyment. Consisting of a wide selection of local cheeses, baked goods and jams, the freshness mated beautifully with the crisp morning air and bright sky.

Finally arriving in Barcelona, we returned to an old favorite, Taller de Tapas in El Born for a nice, reasonably priced sampling to share with our friends. I can’t say we’ve been impressed with much of the ever-present tomato bread, but here it was juiced up with some garlic and nicely toasted, making a tasty appetizer.  More impressive was a restaurant that’s been on my must-do list for three years, Café de l’academia on the postage-stamp Placa Sant Just. At under 100 euros for four at lunch and with treats like an unforgettable foie gras with truffles spread, this beautiful restaurant is at the top of our list in the city.

Druida

Not far behind is Druida, just beyond El Raval. It’s run by the enthusiastic Antonio Infante, who fills the formal but unstuffy dining room with his effusive charm and the aromas of his masterful cooking. I’d like to tell you more about the menu but it’s all in Catalan and no English is spoken. Given the quality and imagination, it really doesn’t matter.

We have begun asking Like Living There clients for their recommendations and eventually will add them to our tip sheets for visitors to Barcelona and Paris. And those of you who’d like to really go native can find fresh ingredients at markets that abound in both cities and many village markets.
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